Ecuador: The Amazon & the Galapagos

Ecuador is the smallest Andean nation, but one of the most diverse and exciting. From the rainforests of the Amazon, to the highlands of the Andes, to the biodiversity of the Galapagos Islands far out in the Pacific, it packs in an amazing amount of adventure.

We ventured deep into the Amazon Basin, to the Napo Wildlife Center in the heart of Yasuni Biosphere Reserve, the largest tract of tropical rain forest in Ecuador. For four days we hiked and paddled deep into the jungle for up-close encounters with the unique flora and fauna. Professional local guides led each days' venture to identify and interpret the bewildering array of life-forms. Nights were spent in private thatch and stucco bungalow cottages, with meals prepared by a fine chef. Luxury in the heart of the jungle.

Three times we stayed at the Airport Wyndham Hotel in Quito, the capital of Ecuador, sampling the city's old colonial charm, its unique cuisine, and its Andean vistas.
· Paddled canoes through Amazon rainforest rivers in search of wildlife.
· Hiked trails deep in the rainforest & climbed high into the canopy with a naturalist guide.
· Visited clay-licks frequented by hundreds of colorful macaws and parrots.
· Slept to the exotic sounds of the jungle.
· Partook of the old-world charm and cuisine of Quito.
· Cruised the Galapagos in a fully staffed luxury sailing catamaran, with an onboard naturalist.
· Sea-kayaked and swam in the clear Pacific with penguins, sea-lions, & sea turtles.
· Hiked with tortoises, iguanas, and dozens of unique bird species.
· Slept to the gentle roll of the sea in the comfort of our private staterooms.

From there we flew to the Galapagos Islands to embark on a 7-day cruise aboard our 72' luxury private charter sailing catamaran, the Nemo II, where each couple had their own en suite stateroom. Cruising from island to island, we hiked, paddled and snorkeled through this extraordinary reserve, always accompanied by a local professional guide who identified and interpreted this archipelago of worldwide fame. Sea-kayaks and snorkeling gear were available on board, with scuba-diving possible for those with PADI certification. A prize-winning chef prepared all meals. Life aboard our private yacht was exciting and very comfortable.

Ecuador Itinerary and Accommodations

Nov 25 — Arriving in Quito late in the day, we were met by our agent and transferred to the Airport Wyndham Hotel.

Nov 26 — After breakfast, a half-day tour of Old Quito, a colonial masterpiece, followed by a return to the hotel late in the afternoon. Group dinner at the hotel.

Nov 27-28-29 — Following an early breakfast, we transferred to the airport for our flight to the town of Coca in the Amazon headwaters. A two-hour motor-launch ride down the sprawling Napo River, then a paddle up a small tributary in an indigenous canoe, brought us to Napo Wildlife Center. For four days we explored the area on foot, by boat, and from canopy platforms high in the trees. A web of walking trails spiders out from the lodge, giving access to some of the most remote areas in the Amazon. By dugout canoe we paddled quiet shaded creeks and a large lake in search of wildlife, including caiman, anacondas, piranha, river otters, and the infamous stinky turkey. Two clay licks attracted dozens of brightly colored macaws, parakeets, and parrotlets. A tower constructed adjacent to a giant kapok tree offered close-up inspection of all the levels of life in the tree canopy, and a visit to the nearby indigenous community revealed people still living by traditional means. Our lodge sat right on the lake, with all outings accompanied by a knowledgeable local guide. Each of 10 luxury cabanas was built with local traditional architecture, full modern amenities, and a private porch with lake and forest views. Wildlife seen in the area included jaguar, puma, tapir, giant anteater, armadillo, capybara, three-toed sloths, many species of monkeys, and hundreds of species of birds.

Nov 30 — After breakfast, we returned via dugout and motor-launch to the airport at Coca for our flight to Quito. Afternoon and evening free to explore Quito and the highlands.

December 1 — A morning flight to Baltra airport in the Galapagos, then transfer to Nemo II, our chartered sailing catamaran and home for the next 7 days.

The Galapagos were made famous by Darwin's voyage, and they retain their mystique to this day with myriad species of wildlife utterly unafraid of human approach. Here we swam with sea lions, floated eye-to-eye with penguins, stood next to blue-footed boobies, and watched 500lb tortoises lumbering through a cactus forest. Galapagos is one of the finest places on earth for up-close nature photography in an unspoiled setting. Cruising to a different island each day, we hiked all around while learning and photographing their unique flora, fauna and natural history. Shore access was by Zodiac, with our professional live-aboard naturalist accompanying each hike. The Nemo II, 72' long and 33' wide, provided 7 comfortable double cabins each with private bathroom and hot water, a spacious lounge and dining area, multiple sundecks, and great service from a crew of 6. Snorkeling gear, wetsuits, sea-kayaks and paddle boards were available at almost every stop. Scuba diving was arranged through outside outfitters. Some of the finest wildlife viewing was underwater, including ubiquitous sea lions, penguins, sea turtles, rays, iguanas, and billions of fish. Dolphins and whales often accompanied our passages back and forth across the Equator. Sunsets and sunrises were exquisite.

Dec 1 — Cruising to Bachas Beach on nearby Santa Cruz Island, we walked among the sea lions and snorkeled the clear waters.

Dec 2 — Leaving before dawn we crossed the Equator heading north, possibly accompanied by dolphins and pilot whales, arriving at Darwin Bay on Genovesa Island for a morning walk along the beach in search of rare Short-eared owls. Later we kayaked, paddleboarded and snorkeled in the clear cold waters, then cruised around Genovesa to El Barranco for more time in the water and on land.

Dec 3 — An overnight cruise back across the Equator brought us to Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island for more snorkeling, followed by an afternoon at Rabida Island to kayak, snorkel, or simply hang out in the sun on deck.

Dec 4 — Cruising to Santa Cruz Island, we drove into the highlands to walk among the giant tortoises in their natural setting. After lunch aboard Nemo II, a visit to the Darwin Center offered more insight into the history of the islands and the ongoing research conducted by scientists from all over the world.

Dec 5 — An early start for the long cruise to the west side of Isabella Island, the largest in the archipelago, with the Southern Cross high in the pre-dawn sky. A walk across intriguing lava beds left by a recent volcanic flow was followed by a stop at Urbina Bay to snorkel and walk the beach with sea lions.

Dec 6 — Cruising further along the coast of Isabella to Tagus Cove, we walked where Darwin famously walked and sea-kayaked or snorkeled with Flightless cormorants. Crossing the channel to Espinoza Point on Fernandina Island, we visited thousands of land iguanas on black lava rock.

Dec 7 — Espumilla Beach on Santiago Island, then on to dramatic Buccaneer Cove with its towering volcanic walls and excellent snorkeling. After lunch we made a wet landing at Egas Port to walk into the interior, watching for Darwin finches and Frigatebirds.

Dec 8 — Cruising back to Santa Cruz Island, we said adios to our Nemo II crew and drove across the island to Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the islands and the port in the middle of the Pacific, checking into the Mar y Sol Hotel on the water. The afternoon was free for shopping and people watching, with a group dinner at a fine restaurant in town.

Dec 9 — Flights back to Quito, check-in at the Wyndham Airport Hotel, and preparation for flights home.

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