Jugal Himal, Nepal

Springtime in Nepal is spelled l-o-v-e. The air is warm and humid. The sky is clear blue in the mornings with puffy clouds floating through the high peaks in the afternoons. Rhododendron forests spread their bright floral beauty over the middle hills where we trek, with aromatic daphne flowers filling the air with sweetness. Myriad wildflowers carpet forest floors and alpine tundra, while birds sporting their mating plumage sing for their mates.

We entered a new realm of existence filled with the beauty and romance of deep forest and alpine splendor. Punctuating our remote trails were scattered isolated villages whose people continue living the agricultural life of their ancestors.

We trekked for 15 days through the Jugal Himal, visible in the distance above Kathmandu, but worlds away in atmosphere. Giant 7000-meter peaks such as Dorje Lakpa and Chobo Bhamare that challenge alpinists offered the stunning backdrop to our every day on the trail. Unlike other mountain areas of Nepal that see hundreds of trekkers, the Jugal is little known to the outside world. Only a few pilgrims visiting its holy lakes make their way into this little-known region.

Trekking a new, recently scouted approach to this magical mountain kingdom, we may have been the only foreign travelers into this antique land. A full retinue of first-class sherpas, porters and cooks looked after us in grand style, with Skip Horner leading the group, celebrating his 50th year of guiding treks and climbs in the Nepal Himalaya. All in all it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Jugal Himal Itinerary and Accommodations

Day 1 — Arriving in Kathmandu, Nepal, we were met at the airport by our agent and transferred to the famous Yak & Yeti Hotel. Remainder of day at leisure. Group dinner at a local restaurant.

Day 2 — A half-day tour of some of Kathmandu's unusual World Heritage Sites, accompanied by a professional local guide. Group dinner.

Day 3 — After breakfast, a scenic overland journey of 6 hours took us out of the Kathmandu Valley and up into the hills, where camp had been set up at Thulo Bhotang at 8500'.

Day 4 — Our first day of trekking took us up through forests of pine and flowering rhododendron trees, passing through villages and yak pastures before arriving after 6 hours at Nosyampati for camp at 12,000' in the deep forest.

Day 5 — A layover acclimatization day at Nosyampati, with a short hike to a viewpoint revealing the high peaks further into the Jugal Himal. Villagers living nearby passed through and visited with us.

Day 6 — A shorter hike up to 13,200' brought us to Panch Pokhari, the 'Five Shimmering Ponds,' a site of pilgrimage for many Hindus and Buddhists. It is said that a bath in these ponds cleanses all sins, while ridding bad omens for a hundred lifetimes.

Day 7 — A 1000' climb to an outstanding ridgetop view of the high peaks of the Jugal Himal, then a 2200' descent to camp at Nema-Gchukpa Kharka. Five hours of trekking with tremendous mountain views.

Day 8 — Climbing up through thick rhododendron forest to a high ridge with views into the Langtang mountains to the west, we then descended to a bridge crossing a cold swift stream to camp at Chhendang at 8500'. 5 hours.

Day 9 — A narrow rocky trail led us to meditation caves used by Buddhist monks, followed by a descent to a creek crossing and camp at Ne Pemasal at 11,500'. 6 hours.

Day 10 — A long but moderate 5-hour climb up and down through forest and out onto the alpine area, with mountain vistas along the way, brought us to Gyap Kharka, a summer grazing meadow, at 14,400'.

Day 11 — A short walk among the glacial moraines led to Jugal Himal Base Camp at 15,400', where we had lunch and spent the night with peaks towering all around. That afternoon a hike to a highpoint rewarded us with vast vistas of the mountains of the Jugal Himal.

Day 12 — Following a different route along the river downstream, we returned to Ne Pemasal for camp. 5 hours.

Day 13 — Heading off in a more easterly direction, well off the beaten track, we trekked among the moraines and glaciers of this remote Himalayan reserve, reaching after 6 hours the yak pasture of Ne Kharka at 13,900'.

Day 14 — A pleasant 5-hour ramble through wild alpine country peppered with glacial lakes and big views of the mountains led us to camp at Jumle Pokhari at 13,800'.

Day 15 — Another 5-hour high-country ramble among glacial lakes and moraines brought us to Bhairab Kunda at 13,500', a lake holy to Hindu pilgrims for its representation of Lord Shiva — another opportunity to bathe away our sins.

Day 16 — Beginning our downhill return, we dropped into the rhododendron and pine forests as the trail wound among scattered settlements to Thulo Dunga at 11,500'. 6 hours.

Day 17 — A short 2-hour hike brought us to Kyangsing village, the end of our trek, where our vehicles met us for the 6-hour drive back to Kathmandu. We checked into the Yak & Yeti Hotel and headed out for dinner on the town.

Day 18 — A free day in Kathmandu, followed by evening flights home.

Back to top...